J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#1C'est un truc de fou, j'en ai jamais chié autant pour trimer un avion dans DCS.
Par exemple le Su-33 ne me pose pas autant de soucis.
C'est toujours trop ou pas assez.
J'ai aussi l'impression que les moteurs ont une grosse inertie pour les petits ajustements, ce qui fout en l'air toute correction au trim.
Donc si vous avez des conseils pour trimer efficacement dans le circuit d'appontage Case 1, je suis preneur
PS: ça fait une semaine que je ne fais que ça.
Par exemple le Su-33 ne me pose pas autant de soucis.
C'est toujours trop ou pas assez.
J'ai aussi l'impression que les moteurs ont une grosse inertie pour les petits ajustements, ce qui fout en l'air toute correction au trim.
Donc si vous avez des conseils pour trimer efficacement dans le circuit d'appontage Case 1, je suis preneur
PS: ça fait une semaine que je ne fais que ça.
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#2Alors je vais te dire pour le circuit Case 1... Trime en mode "grosso merdo", arrange-toi pour toujours avoir un peu à tirer le manche pour tenir l'avion, et résous-toi à devoir travailler un peu avec la profondeur. Chercher à trimer parfaitement l'avion alourdit plus la charge de travail que de le tenir au manche.
Blog: Kurultay.fr
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#3Bon, tant pis alors.
Mais même pour tenir un palier je trouver qu'il est chiant
Mais même pour tenir un palier je trouver qu'il est chiant
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#4pour voler en palier tu peux engager le PA quand tu es bien en palier puis tu le désengage. Ça trim l'avion pour le garder dans la position ou tu l'as engagé. Mais attention des que tu vas accélérer ou ralentir ça va modifier le trim puisque les ailes vont bouger et donc la portance va changer. Par exemple, lorsque tu es a coté tu ravitailleur a peu près a sa vitesse, si tu veux ravitailler en mode "facile" tu mets les ailes en mode bomb pour qu'elles ne bouge plus, tu mets un coup de pilote auto et tu le désactive après. La ton avion sera trimer comme il faut.
Tower : IN WIN D-Frame Red - Watercooling : EKWB (CM, CPU, CG) - Alim : Corsair RM1000x - CM : Asus Maximus XI Formula - CPU : Intel i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - CG : Asus Nvidia RTX 2080Ti Strix OC 11Go - RAM : DDR4 Corsair 64Go 3000Mhz - Windows 10 64 - DD System : 4To SSD PCIe M.2 NvMe Samsung 970 Pro - Hotas : Virpil V.F.X Grip, MongoosT 50CM2 Throttle - Rudder : Thrustmaster TPR - VR : HP Reverb G2 - Monitor : Asus ROG PG348Q - Keyboard, Mouse : Steelseries
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#5@ Pogo : on est d’accord sur le plan général mais Jojo parlait du circuit Case 1
Entendons-nous bien : je ne préconise pas de ne pas trimer. Tu trimes comme tu le fais avec un autre avion mais pour un résultat plus flou, et tu gères le déficit au manche. Et tu bosses un maximum aux gaz en synchro avec le manche pour tenir l’incidence et l’altitude cibles, même en palier !
Le secret du F-14 en configuration d’appontage, c’est de mater constamment les instruments primaires pertinents (*) et l’indicateur d’incidence tout en regardant dehors (donc il faut bâtir une méthode de scan), de ne pas chercher le trim parfait et d’être ultra rigoureux aux gaz et au manche. En gros, tu es en surcharge de travail permanente. Donc il faut en bouffer. Et un jour...
(*) Selon la situation, on fait l’impasse sur un ou plusieurs instruments. Par exemple, à partir de l’entrée en vent arrière, on oublie le badin : si l’incidence est bonne et l’altitude (ou la pente) cible tenue, le badin qui en résultera le sera aussi.
Normal. Un beau jour, tu vas le trouver étrangement facile et tu vas te demander ce qui a changé dans le FM...
Entendons-nous bien : je ne préconise pas de ne pas trimer. Tu trimes comme tu le fais avec un autre avion mais pour un résultat plus flou, et tu gères le déficit au manche. Et tu bosses un maximum aux gaz en synchro avec le manche pour tenir l’incidence et l’altitude cibles, même en palier !
Le secret du F-14 en configuration d’appontage, c’est de mater constamment les instruments primaires pertinents (*) et l’indicateur d’incidence tout en regardant dehors (donc il faut bâtir une méthode de scan), de ne pas chercher le trim parfait et d’être ultra rigoureux aux gaz et au manche. En gros, tu es en surcharge de travail permanente. Donc il faut en bouffer. Et un jour...
(*) Selon la situation, on fait l’impasse sur un ou plusieurs instruments. Par exemple, à partir de l’entrée en vent arrière, on oublie le badin : si l’incidence est bonne et l’altitude (ou la pente) cible tenue, le badin qui en résultera le sera aussi.
Blog: Kurultay.fr
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#6Merci du tuyaux. Venant du M-2000C, trimer au PA est un truc que j'avais intuitéPogo a écrit : ↑sam. janv. 25, 2020 3:53 ampour voler en palier tu peux engager le PA quand tu es bien en palier puis tu le désengage. Ça trim l'avion pour le garder dans la position ou tu l'as engagé. Mais attention des que tu vas accélérer ou ralentir ça va modifier le trim puisque les ailes vont bouger et donc la portance va changer. Par exemple, lorsque tu es a coté tu ravitailleur a peu près a sa vitesse, si tu veux ravitailler en mode "facile" tu mets les ailes en mode bomb pour qu'elles ne bouge plus, tu mets un coup de pilote auto et tu le désactive après. La ton avion sera trimer comme il faut.
Pour l'instant j'apponte, mais c'est moche
Mais même avec les ailes en position fixe, je trouve qu'il y a une grosse inertie, un gros délais entre l'action au trim et l'effet.
Peut-être le trim, mais peut-être me délais des moteurs ?
Sur un Su-33 de masse similaire, je le trouve plus facile à trimer.
Bon ok, CDVE en tangage
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#7__________________
>Petites explication de IRON MIKE de HEATBLUR: assez compréhensible aussi avec google trad...
Set the curve to around 5 ish, let us start from there (you have a good stick, so keep it around linear, our fm allows for that). Make sure you have a small deadzone, or let us say, a deadzone large enough to account for your unwanted hand/stick movement, but have none, if this isnt an issue for you.
Now, first thing to train is not fly level, but fly a perceived straight and level line, in a sense, ofc the goal is to get either climb or dive to be minimal, but what I mean is: don't look at your VVI or alitimeter for the time being. Simply look at the horizon and try to fly so, that you keep it center. First: level, then: in a turn, then: in a turn pulling 2, 3 and 4 Gs. I'll explain:
What you will notice now, is that she basically always wants to climb, unless you trim her negative, in which case she will really start pulling down. and it seems like she doesnt know any middle ground. up or down, all the time. I am exaggerating, but especially at cruise speed she was known to have to be retrimmed all the time and to be unstable in level flight.
So, now, what you lack, is the feeling (muscle memory) to constantly counter these "oscillations", and be so atuned to them in your muscle memory that your inputs get as small as possible, but also that you realize her tendencies before they actually happen.
The one thing you have to learn here, in my opinion from the little you told me, is: do not try to fly the aircraft with trim. That is in general a no no in flying. Trim is only being used to ease off stick force. But you have to fly the aircraft with your stick, 100% of the time, especially in the Tomcat. In Sims however, we develop very bad habits, especially when we are used to simulated FBW with even autotrim and such and such. It makes sim flying rather comfortable and easy. It lets you put flying into the back of your conscience, and concentrate on the boom you are about to deliver. But the Tomcat is an aviatior's plane, in real life as in the sim. This means: you need to adjust your mindset. And the mindset is: fly with the stick, trim only to ease off stick force!
One of the oddest things for most sim pilots who fly out of their wrist (desk sticks), is that when you pull up and want to level, it is not enough to let go off the stick, you have to actually push it actively back forward. That can feel weird, have we been used to the "let go and it will level" habit before. Very weird. And we are comfy ppl, all of us, and we do not like leaving our comfort zone. So whenever I fly with folks in the Tomcat, this is one of the prime things I spot. She shows you, no, she screams at you: hey, look! I am climbing! Do something! But the pilot just does not move the stick. At all. Well: she will continue to climb. And this goes on all the time, every single moment, just that when you see someone fly beautifully level and coordinated in his turns, it means that it is going on on such a small level, that it is barely noticeable.
So: start big. Up and down, like a "madman", when you start the level training. Allow yourself to get a feel for your active stick range back and forward, bring it in, pull it back, gradually slowly, see how she climbs, and then push it back down, yes negative G if necessary, stick forward and see how you counter that, but you must always counter it, that is the practice. And then get smaller, and smaller, and smaller, and smaller yet. And keep doing it. It will not come to you overnight, but if you keep at it, it will make "click" soon enough, I can promise you that.
I can assure you, it can be flown nicely with any stick, if you have adopted that mindset. Breathe and have a lose grip on the stick for maximum feel. You should be able to fly a case 1 with 2 fingers, and I assure I can, it wont be just as beautiful and precise, and thats not what you should train for, but that is how light your grip should be. But the most important thing is: you can never let go, never give up to work your throttle and stick at all times. Even if barely, but work it you must. Only AP engaged lets you let go of that, and even then you have to work your throttle.
And what you said about "taking your eyes off", is much like when you start driving a car: remember how often you hear "eyes on the road" in the beginning? Because you do not have developed yet the sense to drive straight without looking at the road. In time, you eat, phone and roll a cigarette while driving 250 on the autobahn, if you catch my drift (srsly, pls dont do that irl). It is much like that in the Tomcat, only that you didnt have a driving teacher so far, and most likely never developed that proper feel for her because of it.
I won't have time before christmas, but after the holidays, sometime in January, I'll fly with you, if you want, and take a look and help you correct bad habits and dial down the input you need to get a good grip of her.
Now, this has been a wall of text, alright. But don't be scared off by it. This wall of text makes it look harder than it is. It just requires the right practice, which in your case I'd "prescribe" as follows:
1. Get a feel for its range of stick movement, while pulling back and pushing forward again, from up to down and back all the way. The only rule here: every up movement has to be countered by a down movement and vice versa. Do it fast, do it slow, do it very slow, do it hard, do it smoothly, in short: get a feel for it.
2. Rinse and repeat and every time you do it, get smaller and smaller, until you get so small, that you basically fly level. (ofc, at one point you won't have to counter, what you do not induce, so your inputs will not only get smaller, but less, and trim will become more helpful, with small, few stick inputs and small re-trims when necessary. this is a heads up, this won't happen for a while...)
3. Now try to fly level, by concentrating on the horizon, dont look at your instruments, just fly more and think about it less and less, keep the horizon level is all, do it until you are happy with it, make it your second nature. Trim to ease off stick force if necessary, but fly with your stick.
4. Now do all that level elegance you just learned in coordinated turns, just level, then with Gs. 2 Gs, 2.5 Gs, 3 Gs, 3.5 Gs, 4Gs, 4.5 Gs if you like up to 6.5, but note: the more Gs you pull, the less you will train your basic stick work, but more advanced energy management. My advice. Go to up to 4.5 for this exercise, not more. And note what she does at each G setting, the rattle, the buffet. Remember it: it will serve you later on as a second G-Meter... Additionally, train coordinated turns at high AOAs (this is the final step though!), and learn to use rudder instead of bank for situations where you want to avoid roll reversal.
5. Once, and only once you feel comfy with all that, start incorporating a cockpit instrument scan, that makes sense to you, look level, look at the altimeter, look level, look at the speed indicator, look level, look at the G meter... etc etc... And then start taking this into your account as well. It is totally fine that you peaked on your instruments in the previous steps, it is good even if you did. But now we look at them with more purpose: you see the altimeter dive, pull back, like you just learned and so on. At the end, putting all this together will make you an extremely aware pilot. And only aware pilots are good pilots.
6. Lastly, "100%-exact-all-the-time-robot-like-AP-like-level-flight" can never be achieved. So don't beat yourself up about it. Rather: set your standard by setting parameters. In the beginning: try staying within +/- 200 feet of your target altitude. (note, after step 4, when you start incorporating gauges into your workflow again), then set your parameters to +/- 100 feet, then 50 feet and eventually 10 feet. Don't get mad if you break them, and give up, and go "aaargh". No. Correct the mistake, bring it back into your parameters. Once you are at 10 feet, depending on the situation, you will break it a lot. No matter how good you are, and that is ok. It is a guideline. And say in a dogfight it matters feck anything anyway, but what will help, is all that stick feeling you will have gained through that training.
Hope it helps! Have fun, as always, the journey is the goal
>Petites explication de IRON MIKE de HEATBLUR: assez compréhensible aussi avec google trad...
Set the curve to around 5 ish, let us start from there (you have a good stick, so keep it around linear, our fm allows for that). Make sure you have a small deadzone, or let us say, a deadzone large enough to account for your unwanted hand/stick movement, but have none, if this isnt an issue for you.
Now, first thing to train is not fly level, but fly a perceived straight and level line, in a sense, ofc the goal is to get either climb or dive to be minimal, but what I mean is: don't look at your VVI or alitimeter for the time being. Simply look at the horizon and try to fly so, that you keep it center. First: level, then: in a turn, then: in a turn pulling 2, 3 and 4 Gs. I'll explain:
What you will notice now, is that she basically always wants to climb, unless you trim her negative, in which case she will really start pulling down. and it seems like she doesnt know any middle ground. up or down, all the time. I am exaggerating, but especially at cruise speed she was known to have to be retrimmed all the time and to be unstable in level flight.
So, now, what you lack, is the feeling (muscle memory) to constantly counter these "oscillations", and be so atuned to them in your muscle memory that your inputs get as small as possible, but also that you realize her tendencies before they actually happen.
The one thing you have to learn here, in my opinion from the little you told me, is: do not try to fly the aircraft with trim. That is in general a no no in flying. Trim is only being used to ease off stick force. But you have to fly the aircraft with your stick, 100% of the time, especially in the Tomcat. In Sims however, we develop very bad habits, especially when we are used to simulated FBW with even autotrim and such and such. It makes sim flying rather comfortable and easy. It lets you put flying into the back of your conscience, and concentrate on the boom you are about to deliver. But the Tomcat is an aviatior's plane, in real life as in the sim. This means: you need to adjust your mindset. And the mindset is: fly with the stick, trim only to ease off stick force!
One of the oddest things for most sim pilots who fly out of their wrist (desk sticks), is that when you pull up and want to level, it is not enough to let go off the stick, you have to actually push it actively back forward. That can feel weird, have we been used to the "let go and it will level" habit before. Very weird. And we are comfy ppl, all of us, and we do not like leaving our comfort zone. So whenever I fly with folks in the Tomcat, this is one of the prime things I spot. She shows you, no, she screams at you: hey, look! I am climbing! Do something! But the pilot just does not move the stick. At all. Well: she will continue to climb. And this goes on all the time, every single moment, just that when you see someone fly beautifully level and coordinated in his turns, it means that it is going on on such a small level, that it is barely noticeable.
So: start big. Up and down, like a "madman", when you start the level training. Allow yourself to get a feel for your active stick range back and forward, bring it in, pull it back, gradually slowly, see how she climbs, and then push it back down, yes negative G if necessary, stick forward and see how you counter that, but you must always counter it, that is the practice. And then get smaller, and smaller, and smaller, and smaller yet. And keep doing it. It will not come to you overnight, but if you keep at it, it will make "click" soon enough, I can promise you that.
I can assure you, it can be flown nicely with any stick, if you have adopted that mindset. Breathe and have a lose grip on the stick for maximum feel. You should be able to fly a case 1 with 2 fingers, and I assure I can, it wont be just as beautiful and precise, and thats not what you should train for, but that is how light your grip should be. But the most important thing is: you can never let go, never give up to work your throttle and stick at all times. Even if barely, but work it you must. Only AP engaged lets you let go of that, and even then you have to work your throttle.
And what you said about "taking your eyes off", is much like when you start driving a car: remember how often you hear "eyes on the road" in the beginning? Because you do not have developed yet the sense to drive straight without looking at the road. In time, you eat, phone and roll a cigarette while driving 250 on the autobahn, if you catch my drift (srsly, pls dont do that irl). It is much like that in the Tomcat, only that you didnt have a driving teacher so far, and most likely never developed that proper feel for her because of it.
I won't have time before christmas, but after the holidays, sometime in January, I'll fly with you, if you want, and take a look and help you correct bad habits and dial down the input you need to get a good grip of her.
Now, this has been a wall of text, alright. But don't be scared off by it. This wall of text makes it look harder than it is. It just requires the right practice, which in your case I'd "prescribe" as follows:
1. Get a feel for its range of stick movement, while pulling back and pushing forward again, from up to down and back all the way. The only rule here: every up movement has to be countered by a down movement and vice versa. Do it fast, do it slow, do it very slow, do it hard, do it smoothly, in short: get a feel for it.
2. Rinse and repeat and every time you do it, get smaller and smaller, until you get so small, that you basically fly level. (ofc, at one point you won't have to counter, what you do not induce, so your inputs will not only get smaller, but less, and trim will become more helpful, with small, few stick inputs and small re-trims when necessary. this is a heads up, this won't happen for a while...)
3. Now try to fly level, by concentrating on the horizon, dont look at your instruments, just fly more and think about it less and less, keep the horizon level is all, do it until you are happy with it, make it your second nature. Trim to ease off stick force if necessary, but fly with your stick.
4. Now do all that level elegance you just learned in coordinated turns, just level, then with Gs. 2 Gs, 2.5 Gs, 3 Gs, 3.5 Gs, 4Gs, 4.5 Gs if you like up to 6.5, but note: the more Gs you pull, the less you will train your basic stick work, but more advanced energy management. My advice. Go to up to 4.5 for this exercise, not more. And note what she does at each G setting, the rattle, the buffet. Remember it: it will serve you later on as a second G-Meter... Additionally, train coordinated turns at high AOAs (this is the final step though!), and learn to use rudder instead of bank for situations where you want to avoid roll reversal.
5. Once, and only once you feel comfy with all that, start incorporating a cockpit instrument scan, that makes sense to you, look level, look at the altimeter, look level, look at the speed indicator, look level, look at the G meter... etc etc... And then start taking this into your account as well. It is totally fine that you peaked on your instruments in the previous steps, it is good even if you did. But now we look at them with more purpose: you see the altimeter dive, pull back, like you just learned and so on. At the end, putting all this together will make you an extremely aware pilot. And only aware pilots are good pilots.
6. Lastly, "100%-exact-all-the-time-robot-like-AP-like-level-flight" can never be achieved. So don't beat yourself up about it. Rather: set your standard by setting parameters. In the beginning: try staying within +/- 200 feet of your target altitude. (note, after step 4, when you start incorporating gauges into your workflow again), then set your parameters to +/- 100 feet, then 50 feet and eventually 10 feet. Don't get mad if you break them, and give up, and go "aaargh". No. Correct the mistake, bring it back into your parameters. Once you are at 10 feet, depending on the situation, you will break it a lot. No matter how good you are, and that is ok. It is a guideline. And say in a dogfight it matters feck anything anyway, but what will help, is all that stick feeling you will have gained through that training.
Hope it helps! Have fun, as always, the journey is the goal
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#8Franchement, le spool-up est plutôt confortable, vachement plus qu'avec le Hornet. Bon, c'est pas un 2000 ni un Harrier mais ça va. On rigolera moins avec le F-14A...jojo a écrit : ↑sam. janv. 25, 2020 11:20 amMais même avec les ailes en position fixe, je trouve qu'il y a une grosse inertie, un gros délais entre l'action au trim et l'effet.
Peut-être le trim, mais peut-être me délais des moteurs ?
Sur un Su-33 de masse similaire, je le trouve plus facile à trimer.
Bon ok, CDVE en tangage
Le sujet, c'est surtout qu'à basse vitesse, il y a quelque chose à intégrer dans la mémoire musculaire. Je t'ai donné les grandes lignes mais après, c'est vraiment rien dans le discours et tout dans la pratique. C'est pareil pour le ravito, d'ailleurs, plus encore qu'avec n'importe quel autre avion : un beau jour, tu fais ça les doigts dans le pif en te demandant comment tu pouvais en baver autant jusque là. Et même mieux : j'ai dû arrêter de novembre dernier à cette semaine. Je m'attendais à y laisser des litres de sueur et dès le premier Case 1 et le premier ravito, c'est passé pépouze.
Bref, t'inquiète, avec ton bagage, ça va se faire bien plus vite que tu ne l'imagines !
Blog: Kurultay.fr
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#9Pour l'appontage coupe le HUD ca te feras un truc en moins a regarder et te feras prendre de bonnes habitude dans le Tomcat (comme les vrais) en regardant que l’extérieure, l'AoA, la vitesse et de temps en temps l'altitude
Pour l'AoA tu peux aussi utiliser l'autothrottle au début ça te feras ça aussi en moins a gérer.
N'oublie pas que le poids de l'avion a l'appontage a beaucoup d'influence donc commence leger.
Pour l'AoA tu peux aussi utiliser l'autothrottle au début ça te feras ça aussi en moins a gérer.
N'oublie pas que le poids de l'avion a l'appontage a beaucoup d'influence donc commence leger.
Tower : IN WIN D-Frame Red - Watercooling : EKWB (CM, CPU, CG) - Alim : Corsair RM1000x - CM : Asus Maximus XI Formula - CPU : Intel i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - CG : Asus Nvidia RTX 2080Ti Strix OC 11Go - RAM : DDR4 Corsair 64Go 3000Mhz - Windows 10 64 - DD System : 4To SSD PCIe M.2 NvMe Samsung 970 Pro - Hotas : Virpil V.F.X Grip, MongoosT 50CM2 Throttle - Rudder : Thrustmaster TPR - VR : HP Reverb G2 - Monitor : Asus ROG PG348Q - Keyboard, Mouse : Steelseries
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#10Je me suis fait un kneeboard pour les décollages et les atterrissages sur porte avions ou terrains m'indiquant ce que je dois larguer en armement et/ou carburant pour atterrir sur porte avions ou terrain
Tower : IN WIN D-Frame Red - Watercooling : EKWB (CM, CPU, CG) - Alim : Corsair RM1000x - CM : Asus Maximus XI Formula - CPU : Intel i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - CG : Asus Nvidia RTX 2080Ti Strix OC 11Go - RAM : DDR4 Corsair 64Go 3000Mhz - Windows 10 64 - DD System : 4To SSD PCIe M.2 NvMe Samsung 970 Pro - Hotas : Virpil V.F.X Grip, MongoosT 50CM2 Throttle - Rudder : Thrustmaster TPR - VR : HP Reverb G2 - Monitor : Asus ROG PG348Q - Keyboard, Mouse : Steelseries
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#11C'est cool, merci pour tous vos conseils.
J'ai suivi le guide de Chuck pour commencer. J'ai mis 10 de courbe et 4 de deadzone, avec mon vieux X-55 il faut bien ça (Hornet grip commandé et base Virpil WarBRD à suivre, ça gratte un peu le X-55 )
Pour l'instant j'utilise la mission instantanée Appontage Case 1 sur la carte Caucase, donc l'avion est (trop ?) léger
@ Aquila, en effet, en perdant moins de temps à chercher le trim ça va mieux
Voilà, vous allez pouvoir rigoler
J'ai suivi le guide de Chuck pour commencer. J'ai mis 10 de courbe et 4 de deadzone, avec mon vieux X-55 il faut bien ça (Hornet grip commandé et base Virpil WarBRD à suivre, ça gratte un peu le X-55 )
Pour l'instant j'utilise la mission instantanée Appontage Case 1 sur la carte Caucase, donc l'avion est (trop ?) léger
@ Aquila, en effet, en perdant moins de temps à chercher le trim ça va mieux
Voilà, vous allez pouvoir rigoler
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#12Alors franchement, y'a pas de quoi se marrer, hein. Tout est là, ça va. Il va juste falloir en bouffer pour peaufiner deux ou trois trucs. L'alignement final est un peu chaotique mais ça reste honnête. Pas mal, vraiment !
Blog: Kurultay.fr
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#13franchement c'est bien !!!
Tower : IN WIN D-Frame Red - Watercooling : EKWB (CM, CPU, CG) - Alim : Corsair RM1000x - CM : Asus Maximus XI Formula - CPU : Intel i9 9900K 5.1Ghz - CG : Asus Nvidia RTX 2080Ti Strix OC 11Go - RAM : DDR4 Corsair 64Go 3000Mhz - Windows 10 64 - DD System : 4To SSD PCIe M.2 NvMe Samsung 970 Pro - Hotas : Virpil V.F.X Grip, MongoosT 50CM2 Throttle - Rudder : Thrustmaster TPR - VR : HP Reverb G2 - Monitor : Asus ROG PG348Q - Keyboard, Mouse : Steelseries
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#14Merci, disons que 104th_Maverick m’a donné des complexes
Il faut que je bosse la sortie de dernier virage
Merci à DID aussi pour la citation d’Iron Mike. Bon va falloir “branler le manche” alors
On va juste éviter de dire à la PAF qu’il ne faut pas piloter au compensateur
Il faut que je bosse la sortie de dernier virage
Merci à DID aussi pour la citation d’Iron Mike. Bon va falloir “branler le manche” alors
On va juste éviter de dire à la PAF qu’il ne faut pas piloter au compensateur
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#15Pour le dernier virage, n’hésite pas à commencer velu pour dégauchir tout doux à la fin. Ce qui implique de commencer avec un AoA un peu faible.
Blog: Kurultay.fr
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- Inscription : 19 janvier 2019
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#16Vraiment pas mal Jojo, tu y es déjà là! ya plus qu'à driller ... j'ai plus de 500 atterrissage/appontage avec ce zingue mais pourtant ça reste toujours un exercice compliqué, j'ai toujours des cas où je suis pas fier (c'est enfoiré de cat ne supporte pas qu'on le bacle, genre: 'maintenant je sais faire'... ) mais tous les beaux appontages sont toujours bien plus gratifiant qu'avec n'importe quel autre appareil!
Core i5-4440 (3,1GHz) - 24Go - 500Go SSD + 1To HD - 1060-6Go - Stick X56 + throttle Warthog- Cockpit F16
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#17Voilà. Il n'est pas vraiment difficile à apponter, notre matou. En simu, on ne meurt jamais... Il est difficile à apponter correctement !
Blog: Kurultay.fr
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- Apprenti-Mécano
- Messages : 219
- Inscription : 19 janvier 2019
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#18Exactement, bien résumé Aquila!
Core i5-4440 (3,1GHz) - 24Go - 500Go SSD + 1To HD - 1060-6Go - Stick X56 + throttle Warthog- Cockpit F16
Re: J'en bave pour trimer cet avion
#19Oui faut surtout s'entrainer avec cet appareil, au début on en chie, c'est clair. Puis les appontages parfait ca n'existe pas.